This is the first time I’m looking at all these barrels on an individual basis. I’ve of course tasted our 10 Pinot lots from last year’s harvest dozens of times: I’m sampling and topping and adding sulphur as needed every three weeks; if something is particularly intriguing or concerning from a quality standpoint, I drill into the lot a little bit more. But until now, I haven’t really tried to hunker down and dig into the nuances of each lot and every barrel—and take a really detailed set of notes.